If the spark were to occur at top-dead-center, then the combustion wouldn't be at its peak until the piston was already on its way down.Īdvancing the ignition causes the spark to occur before the piston reaches the top, so you get the most ammount of downward force when the piston reaches the top. (NOT THE +15 MARK!)Ĥ321 from the distributor to the timing belt to use that, simply set the advance that you want, (18, 19, etc) and line it up with the top-dead-center mark. The ignition advance setting on the timing light can also be used. Turn the car off, pull the paperclip out, and go test it. Recheck the timing, to make sure it didn't move while you were tightening the cap. Tighten the distributor, being careful not to move the cap. using the '+2' mark (furthest to the bottom) as a reference, go a tiny bit just beyond that. With one hand on the gun, and looking in the hole, SLOWLY turn the distributor towards the firewall to advance, toward you to retard. Loosen the 3 bolts on the distributor (10mm? 12mm? I don't remember.) Take a screw driver, and with a hammer, notch the distributor cap & base, incase you ever want to easily return it to stock. The arrow on the block should be very near the center mark (15 degrees), assuming your timing has never been messed with. make sure the timing light, if it has built-in ignition advance, is on '0'. You won't be able to see the top-dead-center mark, it will be hidden out of view of the small hole. Take the flashing timing light, and aim it in the hole. there are actually two arrows, your point of view should line those up. you will see two a marker that looks like an arrow, on the right side. Take a flashlight, and aim it inside that hole. Turn off your garage light (or do this at night) Adjust your idle screw on the throttle body so that you idle at 700 RPM (or as close as possible.) (or you can use your V-AFC for that, if you have one). if its a nice timing light, it will display your idle speed. the timing light clamp just needs to go over that wire. (the firing order goes, from passenger side to driver side, 2-1-3-4). Take your timing light, hook it up per the instructions that came with the light (power from the battery, ground to the chassis) the #1 plug wire is the wire that goes to the 2nd spark plug from the passenger side. yank that thing out of the block, there will be a hole there (don't stick your weewee in there, you'll fawking loose it) you will see it under the upper radiator hose, next to the header heat shield. pull the small rubber stopper out of the front of the block. turn off all lights, AC, fan, defroster, & stereo equipment in the car turn the ignition on, but don't start the car take the one with the brown & white wire going into it, and stick a paperclip into the plug to jump the harness (complete the circuit) look under the dash on the driver side, behind the center console. say 'damnit', get back in the car, and drive to the store and buy a timing light, with a digital readout for RPM. drive around until you are almost out of gas Here is how to set your timing (this applies to a 4th generation prelude H22 - would guess the 5th gen is the same, or close.): I wouldn't go anything past 19-20 degrees though. USDM motors have less of a chance of doing that, as the compression is lower. your biggest concern from advancing the ignition will be detonation. I have a stock JDM motor with intake & V-AFC. I cranked it up to where its supposed to go, and went back to the track - ran a 14.7 I went home, checked the timing, and it was about 8 degrees retarded. I went to the track, and my BEST time was a 15.8. I had been without my car for a month, and driving a focus, so it seemed quick. I drove the car around for a while, and it felt ok I guess. When I got my new motor, the shop forgot to check the timing. Ignition timing can KILL performance, or KILL your motor.
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